2HAIKU

2HAIKU ARCHIVE


02/22/06


Today Teelu, Madan's brother, Madan who got married, and I began the cleaning of the Mandir Štemple- at the Manikarnika ghat. The main burning ghat that takes it's name from an amrit pool where the water is of unknown source, hot in the winter and cool in the summer. 
 

Parvatti, the consort of Lord Shiva lost an earring there once, so it has the root of the word for earring in it. All the gods were enlisted to search for this special earring made from the ruby stone,even today bathers hope to find it. Vishnus feet are also steps away so it's a dense bit of historical, spiritual and economic real estate.

One of the most endearing and basic tenets of Hindu philosophy is seva, that is selfless service. This is the primary motivation for the cleaning of the temple. Still of course the ego is fed by the reaction to the way the mandir saf dona has effected the locals. Of course many think I'm getting bilked by a couple of It was just an idea idea a few days ago and in one day of work has transformed the ghat. So the intention is still seva without direction.

Certainly the Brahmins that have lost confidence in the people, so they think that trying to transform the local worker toilet into a temple again is a crazy act. Yes the Mother Ganga claims her by flood every year, depositing sometimes up to a meter of silt. This could be considered architectural r&r. The rest of the year she flows calmly by. Bricking up the door will keep the lingam safe inside. during the flood. The Brahmins know of course they know also that it's much more work for them. People are going to expect puja's here now. So I'm treading on a different level of gangster; the temple mafia, the Brahmins. No worries the worst that can happen is a contract gig and my friends burn me here. At Manikarnika Ghat you don't need a weekend retreat to remind you that it's all temporary and an illusion.

It is the maha ishvara temple that we have cleaned. Tomorrow the sign can be read that is a dedication of the mandir. The translation may not meet expectation but at least we want the date of creation.. I know the pool up the steeps goes back to the age when shiva was a yogi here on the banks of the Mother Ganga. We settle for a date that the marble was last laid.

 

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There was almost 1.5 meters of fine Ganga silt surrounding the temple and filling the inner sanctum. The preassure washer is in a boat just offshore and we go through 20 litres of diesel in the first day to just clear the area around the temple. It's a thick muck that moves in front of the hose. The kids flock to us hoping to find jewelry or coins in the run off.

It's a slow process and we take turns with the hose which is much more powerful than it looks. It's difficult but they let the gringo run it when he just wrestles it from them. This first day there is humour and scorn tossed from the peanut gallery up on the ghats. By lunchtime though the cleaning bug has caught on and the Manikarnika Kund gets a workover and the steps have all been swept. On the second day we power wash the steps down to the ghat and the platform above that holds the chai shop my friends have.

By the end of the day we have started at the entrance. No one really can tell me what's inside. You have to ask multiple people for every question you have, then you can filter the responses and see what stories overlap. You rarely hear, "I don't know." It's the desire to help you with your travels though not a sinister plot to mislead. After a long, fun and exciting first day we see the entrance down into the temple clearly. We think it could only be a day or two more, we're wrong, there is alot more to come.





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